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Reflexions Of Perfection: Signature Foie Gras/Sour Dough/Berry Jam

May 14, 2014 Food & Beverage No Comments Email Email

In a restaurant such as The Reflexions where every dish on the menu is a tour de force of contemporary French gourmet cuisine, it truly takes something special to stand out and garner the laurels of a signature item.

seared foie gras_resizeBut put together the personal opinion of the restaurant’s virtuoso chef, Daniel Bucher, and popularity based on the numbers of orders passed to its open kitchen and glowing reviews from devoted diners spilled to the service staff or Daniel himself on his table tours, and it is just about possible.

And the main award, among a very select handful of menu items The Reflexions deigns to mark as signature, goes to…. “Seared Foie Gras with Berry Jam and Sour Dough”.

That’s because the sight of this dish alone puts stop to the idea of any debate. Classic, cutting-edge, flamboyantly sculpted and teasingly natural it ticks all the visual boxes with its aesthetic appeal while yet inciting the viewer to immediately stick a fork in it and tuck in.

The basic premise is that the combination with sour dough is what started the whole seared foie gras sensation but, more recently, the bread side has had a bit of a hard time of it. Somehow its contribution to the dish has been reduced to the role of a supporting player. And yet, muses Daniel, where would foie gras be without it?

And so The Reflexions has brought sour dough back to its rightful co-starring role by reinventing it in such a way as to enhance the salty-sour flavour and crunchy intensity that pairs so perfectly with the savoury creaminess of, in this case, a maw of prime Rougie foie gras weighing in at around 100 grams. At the same time, the crisp of sour cough is moulded into a sculpted shape that emphasizes the three-dimensionality of the dish and provides a clever perch for the foie gras.

Complementing the co-stars is the third essential element in any well-rounded foie gras dish, being the slightly tart acidity of specially selected fruits, in this case a rich red gourmet “jam” of in-season mixed berries such as raspberries, black berries, strawberries and red currents.

So far so classic but the dish is also proud to be modern as evidenced by the snow ball of raspberry foam riding high on the meat, crisped raspberry pieces and micro greens that garnish the dish, and the enigmatic squiggle of raspberry compote that offers a linear counterpoint to the more rounded shapes and geometric dimensions above.

To ensure tender perfection of the foie gras it is slowly cooked sousvide first before high-heat searing immediately prior to serving.

As with so much French cuisine, there is indeed a lot to the preparation but the results speak for themselves. There can be no argument that a signature appetizer of Seared Foie Gras with Berry Jam and Sour Dough at The Reflexions takes some beating.

For restaurants reservations please call 02 650 8800 or e-mail fb.bangkok@lemeridien.com or visit plazaatheneebangkok.com, lemeridien.com/plazaatheneebangkok

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