I’ve just finished a hearty breakfast — based on an omelette starring a filling including goat fetta, mixed mushrooms, sun-died tomato and pine nuts —at Lord Howe Island’s expensive and super-exclusive Capella Lodge (www.baillielodges.com.au), and I’m watching the island’s two main landmarks, Mt Gower and Mt Lidgbird, through my suite’s floor-length picture window, against the clearest of skies.
Suddenly, as I watch, the mist rolls in — it’s easy to see why the island is described by locals as being like a Jurassic Park — seemingly from nowhere, enveloping first the top of the 777-metre-tall Mt Lidgbird, then the slightly higher 875-metre-tall Mt Gower, and it begins to rain.
Then, just as suddenly, it’s clear again.
Libby Grant, who’s been managing Capella in conjunction with her Mr Fixit husband Mark McKillop ever since the beginnings of Baillie Lodges some 13 years ago, warns to disregard the weather outlooks, which inevitably predict rain.
Libby Grant: Long-time manager of Capella Lodge. Watching is Richard Howe, First Earl Howe and Admiral of the Fleet, after whom the island is named.
“We’re a speck in the middle of a vast ocean, so we’re bound to get rain most days at some time, but that only seems to enhance the experience of guests, who generally like the temperamental weather,” she says.
And there’s always something to do, even if it is to just sit and watch the mist roll in.
As in Baillie Lodge’s other properties — Kangaroo Island’s Southern Ocean Lodge, Longitude 131º in the Red Centre, and, soon enough, northern Queensland’s Silky Oaks Lodge — the experience leans heavily on presentation of superb food and wine.
Through my suite’s windows: the mist rolls in.
Capella’s Executive Chef Cooper Dickson comes with Southern Ocean Lodge experience, so he knows full-well the standard expected, and ensures a roll-out of top cuisine that emphasises, among other dishes, Lord Howe’s superb fresh seafood.
While I’m there I dine on quickly seared amberjack (done almost carpaccio-style with cucumber salsa and a hot-mustard yoghurt dressing) local fish, pan-roasted moreton bay bug with sauce from the finely crushed shells, and fish-and-chips based on local king fish and bearing no relationship to the standard takeaway variety.
And I balance the seafood overkill with some lamb rump-and-shoulder sourced from Vic’s Meats in Sydney and served with mushy peas to die for and lentil ragout.
Richard Howe, First Earl Howe and Admiral of the Fleet, after whom the island is named.
But before I leave Cooper has a final lunchtime treat in store for me — the season’s first tuna steak, just seared and served almost sashimi-like with a salad containing, among other treats, fresh ruby-grapefruit segments and pistachio pesto.
All washed down with delicious Barossa rosé. I really am one of the lucky ones, having begun my Capella odyssey with a glass of Mesh Riesling from South Australia’s Eden Valley.
Yes, of course, Capella will organise a range of activities for its super-spoilt guests, including walks and sailing adventures — and Libby and Mark will pick up and drop guests off at Lord Howe Airstrip, and take care of bags which miraculously appear in suites.
So, is Capella Lodge worth the rather steep asking price (look at about $1200 per person per night twin-share for a Catalina Suite, including breakfast and dinner, sunset drinks and most other alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, and personal transfers).
No, not if you’re on a penny-pinching vacation and carefully watching every bit of spending. But, yes, definitely, if you crave pure indulgence and exclusivity — and can afford the readies.
And there’s always something to do, even if it is to just sit and eat great food.
A special lunch creation from Cooper Dickson: the season’s first tuna.
And, as a first, I’ll include Cooper Dickson’s simply outstanding tuna recipe:
Ingredients:
1 fresh Lord Howe Island tuna steak (per person)
Fresh ruby grapefruit segments
Freshly cut cherry tomatoes
Green-olive salsa, made with chopped green olives, finely diced shallot, lemon zest and chopped parsley
Herb yoghurt, made with good-quality yoghurt, freshly cut soft herbs and seasoning
Pistachio pesto, made with roasted pistachios, finely grated cheese, fresh basil, olive oil and lemon juice
Baby herbs or nasturtiums to garnish
Method:
Lightly oil and season tuna, place on hot grill or BBQ, and quickly sear on each side.
On a plate add a spoon of the herb yoghurt, then place the tuna on top.
In a small mixing bowl mix all other ingredients and taste for seasoning.
Garnish with baby herbs or nasturtiums.
Enjoy.
Written by John Rozentals
.jpg){kind=tracking}
